Monday, September 10, 2007

Bourbon

Bourbon is an American whiskey that is made from at least 51% corn, and usually includes wheat and/or rye and malted barley. Most bourbon is “straight,” which means it has been aged for at least two years, but probably longer. Kentucky is regarded as “the place” for bourbon to come from.

Bourbon is generally smoother than Irish whiskey and not smoky like Scotch whisky (The Scots drop the “e”). I opine that bourbon is best appreciated neat (straight), on the rocks or in hot water or herbal tea. Drink bourbon like wine: sniff it, sip it, savor it, swallow it. Don’t throw it down your throat. My understanding of the characteristics of bourbon has greatly benefited from having participated in several blind bourbon taste tests. Below are some observations on various bourbon brands (prices are more or less current for fifths in Oregon):

Jim Beam and Jack Daniel’s are horrible. Jack actually gives me an instant headache. If these are the only bourbons you’ve ever tried, you have no idea what bourbon is supposed to taste like. Another undrinkable bourbon is Elijah Craig.

My guess is that the biggest bourbon distillery is Jim Beam. Knob Creek is medium shelf Jim Beam. It is not that good, always scoring very poor in blind tests, and certainly overpriced at $35 a bottle. Booker’s, Baker’s and Basil Hayden’s are all top shelf Jim Beam. I’ve only had Basil Hayden’s, and it is an interesting blend of smooth yet strong, but not worth the hefty $45 price tag. Jim Beam also makes Old Crow, Old Taylor, Jacob’s Well and Old Grand-Dad. Of these, I’ve only tried Old Grand-Dad, which isn't very good.

Evan Williams is the “well” bourbon in a lot of bars. Just kinda blah. The cheapest bourbon I have found that I like is W.L. Weller Special Reserve. It is slightly harsh and a little thin, but is a great deal at 17 bucks. It is certainly better than other bourbons I have tried in its price range, which includes Rebel Yell, Old Forester, Dickel and Ezra Brooks. I have not had Old Charter, but my girlfriend could not differentiate it from Maker’s Mark in a blind test.

Called “Dirty Bird” on the street, the “classic” Wild Turkey is 101 Proof (50.5% alcohol), whereas most bourbons are around 90 Proof (45% alcohol). It has a surprisingly good, woody flavor. Wild Turkey makes several varieties of bourbon, but they all taste very similar. On a side-note, their over-proof rye whiskey (whiskey that is at least 51% rye, although Canadian whiskey is also often confusingly called rye whiskey) is just as good at the same price, although my favorite rye whiskey is easily Sazerac, with a very distinctive rye flavor that makes it worth the $30 price tag.

The best bourbon for its price is Buffalo Trace. At just over $20 a bottle, this is the bourbon I generally buy. It is very smooth, with a great flavor (perhaps a little thin) and no bitter after-taste. Blind tests have continuously demonstrated that Buffalo Trace could be the best bourbon for under $40 a bottle.

Maker’s Mark, which runs $25 a bottle, is very popular these days, and rightfully so. It has a very full flavor, with a slightly harsh aftertaste. Maker’s sets the bar for bourbon, and no blind test should be without it, but participants are always surprised that it’s actually not as smooth as they think. Maker’s with hot water, a lemon slice, some cloves and grated ginger is a great hot beverage. Or just have it with Peppermint or Ginger tea. There’s a restaurant/bar called Savoy’s by my house that makes a killer Maker’s Manhattan. (Purists will tell you a Manhattan is supposed to use rye whiskey, not bourbon, as well as sweet vermouth, Angostura bitters and a cherry.) I’ve tried making Manhattans but with only limited success.

I have tried several $25-$35 bourbons, but it’s hard to justify the price. At $35, Woodford Reserve is too sweet for me. At $27, Corner Creek and Rip Van Winkle are average. At $30, Eagle Rare is delicious, full and smooth, perhaps more like what people think Maker’s tastes like (although I’ve never compared the two side by side). The fad $25 bourbon (at least in Oregon) right now is Bulleit. Don’t believe the hype. It is super-sweet, like brandy (distilled wine), and thin. If I am looking for a sweet after-dinner style drink, I’d much rather drink Hennessy, a Cognac (which is what brandy is called when it’s made in the Cognac region of France).

The greatest bourbon ever made is possibly Blanton’s. It is over $40 a bottle, so I can only afford to buy it once a year. For some reason, I keep an empty bottle on display in my bedroom. Smooooooth. Don’t insult this drink by adding anything to it, other than one ice cube if you must.

4 comments:

oudev oida said...

Jack Daniel's and Dickel are not bourbon, they are Tennessee sour mash whiskies. My bad.

Also, just tried Four Roses bourbon. Just good enough to merit a mention. Full; a little bitter. Judging by the fancy bottle, it's probably around $30, and at that price I'd definitely get Eagle Rare instead.

Olive Bread said...

1. If you want corn, go for straight grain alcohol, man! Everclear straight from corn-bred Iowans!! Mmmm-mmmm!
2. Fuck Wild Turkey. That's all I got to say.

oudev oida said...

1. how can you say mmmm about something that has no flavor? if you want clear alcohol, get gin. it has personality (which is to say there's some awful gin and some great gin).

2. actually just got some Russell's which is made by Wild Turkey but $25 and it's not good at all.

oudev oida said...

It turns out I can't drink Buffalo Trace anymore because it's just too sweet and thin. On the other hand, I can consistenly find Eagle Rare for $25 now which makes it a no brainer- especially considering it is 100% better than Maker's Mark which is the same price.